We made it to Williamsburg! The ride from Richmond along the capital trail was smooth and scenic. It felt like an easy day, which is such a gift. In addition, the weather was perfect. This is a huge contrast from the tornado and flood warnings that hit the area yesterday and forced us to delay our push to the finish line. Tomorrow morning we’ll bike the final 12 miles out to Yorktown beach and then drive home to DC almost immediately thereafter. I must say, despite all the challenges, it’s bittersweet to reach the end. I cannot deny that I am relieved and glad to be done biking. The daily anxiety related to being in traffic and climbing hills has certainly taken a mental and emotional toll. That said, I’m going to miss the sense of adventure and challenge that permeated each and every day. I also love the camaraderie and can-do attitude our team has developed during the last two and a half months.
Looking back on the trip, there were so many high points- but perhaps also an equal amount of low points (at least for me). The other night I was asked if I would encourage others to bike across America. I’m a bit sad and surprised to say that I would not. I honestly found the route to be too dangerous. I spent too much time battling cars and fighting off other challenges (including aggressive dogs) to recommend with a clear conscience that one undertake this journey. Do I want people to get out on bike paths, rail trails, and safe roads- absolutely, 100 percent. However, given that so much of the TransAmerica route is on well-trafficked roads with no shoulders, I think that significantly limits the accessibility of this undertaking.
Despite the dangers and challenges faced, I am so glad that I came on the trip and saw it through to the end. I’ve now seen a lot of America. After having lived in Paris for the last three years, I feel more acquainted with my homeland than ever before. In each state there was something beautiful and interesting to take away or learn:
California:
-Best memory: Reaching South Lake Tahoe. This was basically the end point of our climb up the Sierra Nevada Mountains. The town was cute and we really enjoyed eating at Freashies, a great local spot. More than that, it was an important confidence boost to know that we can do serious mountain climbing.
-Biggest challenge: Biking in constant 100+ degree temperatures. In addition, I really did not like biking through all the homeless encampments in Sacramento.
Nevada:
-Best memory: Biking through Great Basin National Park. The extreme geography was truly awe-inspiring. It was so cool crossing mountains that exceeded 9,000 feet of elevation and then dip down into these immense basins that stretched on for miles.
-Biggest challenge: Being in the middle of nowhere. This meant limited everything- cell service, food, water, and lodging.
Utah:
-Best memory: Biking through Capitol Reef National Park. The rock formations were out of this world. Jordan and I plan to go back to this area to spend a few days hiking and exploring.
-Biggest challenge: Surviving the foggy death climb. On our way into Torrey, Utah (the town right outside Capitol Reef), we had to cross a high elevation mountain (+9,000 feet) on a terribly foggy day. We could barely see in front of us- meaning cars could barely see us. It was both super anxiety-inducing as well as physically challenging to get up and over that mountain.
Colorado:
-Best memory: Visiting the clothing optional hot spring in Ridgeway. Also, visiting the saloon in Ordway. It was the classic movie experience- we walked in, the piano music stopped and everyone stared. We were clearly the outsiders. However, we received the biggest compliment of the trip when the barkeep told us we weren’t weird like the other cyclists who had previously passed through.
-Biggest challenge: Descending down the mountain from Telluride. There was almost no shoulder on this steep descent. We were basically biking on the white line as cars wizzed by just inches away.
Kansas:
-Best memory: Biking a century (100 miles in a day). We took advantage of the long, flat roads to really lay down some miles.
-Biggest challenge: Dealing with strong headwinds and biking past cattle feeding lots (thousands of cows shoved into a small area which created a very sad scene and a terrible smell). I was also super close when a car slammed into the back of a tractor trailer- scared me so much I almost quit.
Missouri:
-Best memory: Biking the Katy Rail Trail and experiencing Missouri wine country.
-Biggest challenge: Honestly, this was a great leg of the trip. I can’t complain.
Illinois:
-Best memory: Sharing a beautiful bottle of wine with Jordan at Grafted Wine Bar in Belleville to celebrate my birthday.
-Biggest challenge: Battling strong headwinds over the course of all three days we spent in the state. It was also very sad and nerve wracking to bike through East Saint Louis.
Kentucky:
-Best memory: Visiting Maker’s Mark Distillery and meeting the very lovely and kind Randy from Hindman who helped us find lodging for a night.
-Biggest challenge: Being attacked multiple times a day by very aggressive dogs. One dog attack caused me to crash, resulting in a lot of scrapes and bruises. Jordan was also almost hit by a car (so close it left a mark on his jacket).
Virginia:
-Best memory: Crossing the border from Kentucky into Virginia. I was so relieved to be out of Eastern Kentucky I felt almost euphoric entering Virginia. A close second was the lovely ride from Richmond to Williamsburg along the capital bike trail. As we were leaving a trail side cafe packed with cyclists, everyone sitting on the patio clapped and cheered for us as we made our way toward the finish line.
-Biggest challenge: Dealing with the horrible smell of all the dead deer. So much roadkill, it’s terrible! It was also a shame that so much of the Virginia route was on busy roads with no shoulders.